“Surviving Airline Travel with Your Hearing Dog”

By Bob Cooley

As the Field Representative for International Hearing Dog for the last 17 years, I have done more than my share of traveling through the country’s airport with Hearing Dogs and it is one of the topics I get asked about most often from new recipients. So, I thought I would take a few minutes to let everyone know what I have learned to do, and not to do, when flying with a dog.

For someone who has never traveled with service dog, a trip to the airport can seem like a very daunting task. But, with some patience and planning, it really isn’t that hard. The first thing one needs to do is to get a health certificate from a vet. A lot of airlines do not require these anymore, but I have found some airline employees don’t know this and will still ask you for one; so it’s better to have it and not need it, then need it and not have it. Most health certificates are good for 10 days and if you get it a day or two before you start to travel, it should be valid for all but the longest trips. The second thing to do before leaving is to take the time to pack for your dog. I always make sure I have enough food for the entire length of my trip, plus one extra day because you never know when you will be delayed because of weather, a change in travel plans, or any number of reasons. I also make sure that I have some food and small bowl with me in my carry on bag because I have been delayed at enough airports gates to know the dog might need to eat or drink something before I can get to my checked bags. Also, do try to get to the airport two (2) hours before your flight because traveling with a dog will take a lot of extra time.

“What do I do about toileting my dog when I’m at the airport?” This is a very common question I get asked a lot. The answer is quite simple: I always take my dog out to toilet after checking my bags, but before going through security and then immediately when I arrive at my destination. A lot of airports now have special areas designated for toileting dogs, but they are not always clearly marked or easy to find. Sometimes, it takes some looking around before you can find them. Almost all airports have a grassy or sandy area near the baggage claim area and these are usually easy to get to. So, when you land and get to baggage claim, it is best to immediately take the dog outside so they can relieve themselves. We all know that sometimes it takes a long time for the baggage to arrive and it’s unfair to ask a dog to wait until it does before being able to go outside. Plus, it gives you something to do and a chance to stretch your legs instead of just standing around waiting. I always make sure I have a plastic bag or two in my carry on as well, so I can clean up after my dog if need be.

“Do I need to make a reservation or buy a ticket for my service dog?” It’s surprising how often I get asked this and I can assure you that you do not need to buy a ticket for the dog. Simply inform the airline when you make your reservation (or have the travel agent do it, if you are using one) that you travel with a service dog and this will take care of it. Keep in mind, however, the airline can’t charge you any kind of fee or extra charge for traveling with your dog. (Keep in mind however, that since you are not buying a ticket, your dog doesn’t get any frequent flyer miles.)

“Once I get checked in at the airport, how do I get through security and TSA?” Ahh, here is the biggest challenge when traveling with a dog. According to the TSA’s own website, “If your service dog alarms in the walk through metal detector, the Security Officer will ask your permission and assistance before they touch your service dog and its belongings. The Security Officer will then perform a physical inspection of your dog and its belongings (collar, harness, leash, backpack, vest, etc.) The belongings will not be removed from your dog at any time. “ Unfortunately, I have learned that not all TSA agents know this and will ask you to remove the leash and collar from your dog since they set off the metal detector. I have found two ways to get around this situation and both have worked very well for me. 1) If your dog is small enough and you can physically pick it up and carry it, simply take the leash and collar off and place them in a tub with the rest of your stuff (shoes, jewelry, sunglasses, etc). Then carry your dog through the x-ray machine with you and as long as you remembered to take all the metal off yourself, you should sail right through and can then put the leash and collar back on the dog and continue on your way. 2) However, if you have a large dog or can’t carry it, then inform the TSA agent it is a Hearing Dog and then you can either have the dog go through first (holding onto the leash, of course) or tell your dog to “Wait” and then you go through and then call your dog to you through the x-ray machine. Either way, the TSA agent will need to do a pat search of your dog, so make sure you help them out by lightly holding your dog and reassure it while they are doing their job. Most of the agents will be wearing blue colored gloves and even though dogs don’t see colors that well, it won’t look right to them and they may get a little worried unless you are there to calm them down.

If you are required to have extra screening done, whether you set off the alarm yourself or the TSA agents instruct you that you need it, it can be handled easily for you and your dog. When they go to check the dog, just follow what I mentioned above; then when it is your turn to be screened you will need to decide what to do with the dog. If you are traveling with someone else that the dog knows and that person has already cleared security, there shouldn’t be any problem with them taking the leash and holding onto the dog off to the side while you get checked. But, if you are traveling alone, the best way to do it is to put your foot on the leash and make your dog settle down while you are being screened. It is a good idea to maintain eye contact with your dog and talk to it, so it knows that you are okay and the person with the funny looking hands isn’t hurting you. Once both of you have been cleared, simply collect all your stuff and head for your gate.

“I’ve arrived at my gate, now what?” Once you have gotten to this point, it should be pretty easy from here. Most airlines will give someone traveling with a service dog the opportunity to board early and I recommend you take it. This way you can get to your seat and get yourself and your dog settled before everyone else gets on board. The FAA has regulations that state a service dog cannot sit on the lap of the person they are working for, so your dog will need to lay down by your feet. Needless to say, you will need to put your carry on bags in the overhead bin and that is where the extra time comes in handy. If your dog is not used to air travel, it is a very good idea to reach down and pet them during take off and landing. With all the noise, vibrations, and movement of the plane, this can be very upsetting for them. However, once you are in the air and have leveled off, your dog will most likely curl up around your foot and use it as a pillow during the flight.

Well, there you have it, just some pointers from a seasoned dog flyer. I know it can seem scary, but if you sit back, relax, and enjoy having your companion with you; it can really make the trip a lot more enjoyable. So, until we meet again in an airport somewhere, have a safe trip and save me a window seat.

“To Leash or Not to Leash”

By Bob Cooley

It’s the start of a new year; time to sit down and muse about things old and new.

Sadly, we’ve had some recent events happen that serve to remind everyone the tremendous importance of keeping your Hearing Dog on a leash AT ALL TIMES when they are outside the home and not in a completely secure, fenced yard. We have lost very valuable dogs in the last few months to this situation and while it is truly tragic to the people involved, as well as for everyone at IHDI, these deaths could have easily been avoided.

The first rule we tell everyone when they first apply to get a Hearing Dog is that your dog is never to be off leash when outside the home. I know how great it feels to watch your dog running around and having a great time. It does one’s heart good to be able to see your dog loose, free, and just enjoying life. However, the problem is a Hearing Dog is trained to go and investigate sounds when they hear it. It is the first thing they learn when they start their training and it becomes paramount to them. I have personally seen dogs stop eating and run to the door with a mouth full of food because someone started to knock or ring the doorbell. It’s what enables these helpers to awake during the night to tell their person that the smoke alarm is going off or if there is any other sound they need to know about.

So, now imagine what happens when the dog is off leash outside and they hear a noise. Their training tells them to go find the sound and more often than not, tragedy soon follows.

The dog may become lost; they sometimes find their way home, sometimes they don’t. But, more often than not, they run out into the street and get killed by a vehicle.

It’s a sad fact but one IHDI has had to deal with several times recently. Please, please, please keep your Hearing Dog (or any dog for that matter) on a leash that you have control of ANY time you are out of a fenced area. It doesn’t matter if you think you have complete control over your dog because it only takes that one time, that fraction of a second for the dog to hear a sound, see a squirrel, chase a bird, see the kids coming home from school and they dart out into the street. A lot of people who have had a Hearing Dog before have learned this the hard way simply because they forgot that when they received they newest Hearing Dog, the process has to start over again and that the new dog will not automatically know their commands or intentions. It’s a long process, usually taking the full three months we stipulate, and just because their last dog, which they probably had for 10 years or more, listened to very well to them; the new dog will not. That is the main reason we require all dogs to be on a leash any time they go outside of a fenced yard. I know that everyone knows to keep their dog on leash when they are out in public, but it is so easy to relax and think, “We’re just stepping outside for a minute, nothing will happen.”

Another point to bring up along these lines is that we strongly discourage the use of electronic fences. Many people feel that these are a very effective way to let your dog into the front yard (or any unfenced area) without a leash and they do work very well for some dogs; but not all dogs. The principle is simple enough. You bury a cable around your yard that transmits a radio signal and then you put a special collar onto your dog with a receiver set to that frequency. When the dog and collar get too close to the cable or try to cross over it, the receiver picks up and signals to trigger a mild shock to the dog’s neck. As I said, this will work for some dogs, but I have personally seen many dogs and heard about a large many more who have figured out that the shock is very quick and if they can handle it, then they are free to romp and roam where ever they want. If you add in a Hearing Dog’s training into this mix, you can have a potentially lethal combination. This being said, I am not coming down on the electrical fence industry or anyone who uses one for the family pet. I am simply speaking as a Hearing Dog trainer and someone who has seen too many good dogs pass long before their time.

In conclusion, I am asking that anyone who has a Hearing Dog from IHDI to remember the first line of the “Responsibilities” section of the health papers you received from us.

Until next time, gentle reader, be safe and watchful of your dog as they watch out for you.

If you have a specific question you would like answered on our website, as well as on our Facebook profile, please email info@hearingdog.org, send us a letter or call the office and Andy and Bob will post their answer’s here as soon as possible!

“Its Cold Outside!!”

By Bob Cooley

As I sit here today, I find it hard to believe that it's already 2011. "Where does the time go?", I wonder as I gaze out the window onto the

semi-freshly fallen snow. It seems like only a month or two ago, that I last sat down to write my previous "Trainer Tips", but then I noticed

that it was almost exactly one year ago. Ah, time does fly when you are having fun.

So, it's time to take pen in hand (so to speak) and get something ready to go. I've had hard time coming up with a subject, but finally decided

on one that applies not just to Hearing Dog, but also pet dogs in general and that is the care and maintenance of dogs during the winter.

With all the snow storms and blizzards hitting the country, I felt it might be good idea to go over how to care for and protect your furry friend from the snow and bitter cold. While nothing is prettier than a gentle falling snow, especially this time of year, there are many hidden dangers lurking out there.

First of all is simply your dog getting too cold. Dogs can suffer from frostbite and hypothermia if they get too cold, just like we do. The first thing your dog will do when they are getting too cold is the same thing people do; they start to shiver. If he or she is just shivering a little bit after you've only been outside for a few moments, you have nothing to worry about. But, it would be a good idea to finish up whatever you two are doing and get back inside by the fire. Shivering is simply the body's way of trying to produce more heat to stave off the cold and as soon as your dog is back inside and warms up, the shivering will stop. Keep in mind that a normal range for dog's body temperature is 100.5 to 102.5, not in the upper 90's like us humans. Small dogs, short haired dogs, and dogs that are wet are going to be more sensitive to the cold and you need to keep a closer eye on them. Also, if your dog has a history of being sensitive to the cold, they need to be watched closely too.

HYPOTHERMIA

Let's say you notice that your dog is shivering a lot and seems lethargic, uncoordinated, and/or stiff, they may be starting to suffer from hypothermia and you need to take action right away! Getting them in out of the cold is vastly important, but what is the best way to get them there. If your dog is small enough that you can comfortably and safely pick them up, then do so. Try to keep them covered up as much as you can with your coat and keep them protected from the wind as well. If you dog cannot be picked up, then just get inside as quickly and safely as you possibly can. Once inside, you need to take them to a warm room with a well insulated floor and gently wrap them in a dry blanket. The reason you need a covered floor is so they do not lost more body heat into the cold concrete or wood floor. A floor with insulation and carpet will help hold the heat next to their body once you get them covered up. Keep them like this until you see that they aren't shivering anymore and their body is back under control. They should be fine at this point, but it doesn't hurt to keep an eye on them for any signs of stress or injury. It is also a good idea to stay with your dog in the room, so they aren't tempted to get up and follow you around.

If your dog is not responding to these measures, they may have a more severe case of hypothermia that requires a more aggressive response and then it would be a good idea to call your vet as moderate to severe hypothermia can have long lasting effects on the body.

The best ways to avoid hypothermia for our four legged friends as well as us two leggers is to limit your exposure to the snow and cold. If it's really cold, with or without any wind, simply take the dog to toilet and then come right back in. If they are just dying to get outside to play in the snow, just limit the time they are outside to a few minutes and bring them back inside as soon as they start to get cold. Remember that several shorter trips will be better on their body than one long play session. Never leave them outside for any length of time if they don't have access to a warm, dry place like a dog house. If your dog likes or at least tolerates a jacket and some dog boots, these can go a long way to making time spent outside enjoyable for everyone.

FROSTBITE

We've all been outside during the winter and felt our fingers and toes get numb from the cold and know that is our bodies way of telling us to get inside. We also know that continuing to stay outside in the cold and wind is not a good idea and can be dangerous. Well, it's the same for our friends, they can suffer from frostbite as well; especially in their feet which are in direct contact with the snow. As the body gets colder, the blood vessels constrict to try an keep in as much heat as possible and this causes the tissue of the ears, toes, and tail to lose heat which can lead to the tissue freezing or forming ice crystals on it and that will cause it die; hence Frostbite. It's not easy to see when your dog has been frostbit because the areas will still be covered in fur, however you need to look for skin under the fur that is very pale and very cold to the touch. Another sign they need to get out of the cold is when you see them holding their feet out of the snow and they are limping. This means their toes and feet are getting too cold and they need to be warmed up. If you can, remove your glove and hold the affected paw in your hand to quickly melt the snow and warm it back up. When your dog tries to pull the foot away, they will be able to walk on it long enough to get back inside.

If you have determined that your dog does have or might have frostbite, you need to follow the steps from above in order to warm them up, but do it very gradually. As hard as it will be, you need to resist the urge to rub or massage the affect areas because this could actually damage the skin and do more damage. As the skin starts to warm up, it will be become very red and will be very painful for your dog, so keep in mind that they may be a little grumpy towards you. In a couple of days, the skin on the affected areas will dry up and become scaly. If it's a severe case, it will turn black and start to slough off. Even if you think your dog has a mild case of frostbite, a quick call to the vet is probably a good idea for more advice.

Another potential danger comes in the form of the "ice melts" used by a lot of businesses and home owners to clear off their drive ways and sidewalks. Most of the times, these comes in the form of small crystals or pellets of chemicals that are used to either lower the melting point of the ice and snow or that themselves heat up when they come in contact with snow; which in turns helps to clear the sidewalks. However, since this material reacts with any snow or ice it comes in contact with, it could react when your dog steps on it with snow covered paws and then it will become very uncomfortable. Imagine the sensation you get when a good friend or family member sneaks up behind you and dumps a handful of snow down your back. It's a similar sensation excepts more of a burning one. As so many places use this method for clearing their walkways, it is pretty hard to avoid when out and about with your dog. Luckily there is a very easy way to clean it off your dog's feet. Simply keep an old towel in your car and another one near your door at home and wipe their feet off when you come in. It doesn't take more than a minute or so and your furry friend will love you for it.

So, there you go. Just a few pointers from someone who has spent a lot of time in some really cold places with a lot of dogs.

Until next time, gentle reader; stay warm while you play in the snow and just remember the only part of dog that should be cold is the nose.

Home | About Us | Events | Get Involved | Recipients & Applicants | Contact Us | Demos & Tours